The Magic of the temple of Aphaia

The ancient Temple of Aphaia* is a special place. It stands in a beautiful spot above the pine forests in the hills of Aegina, with fabulous views across the Saronic Gulf. You can wander among the bleached sandstones, and imagine yourself there 2500 years ago when the surviving temple was built, or among the first known worshippers another thousand years before that.

Aphaia is well preserved and restored, and historically important, so it is hardly surprising that it is one of the island’s most popular tourist sites. But there are also some intriguing myths and mysteries, which are not so well known.

Early goddess worship

People have visited Aphaia since at least the Late Bronze Age/14th Century BCE – also the height of the Mycenaean Era. Female figurines have been found, showing that locals worshipped a goddess of fertility, childbirth and agriculture. Some were uncovered in a cave below the north-east corner of the site, where a deep shaft drops down into the mountain. This was probably a drinking water source, but legend holds that it is also, perhaps, an entrance to the underworld.

Mycenaean architecture and culture

The first Temple was built much later, around 570 BC, but was destroyed by a fire and then rebuilt around 510 BC. The main structure is still impressive, but it must have been stunning: its architecture is Doric, with 32 columns, dozens of statues, carved entablature and two huge carved pediments on the east and west sides, showing Athene the goddess of war and Trojan battle scenes. Today, 20 columns remain and the surviving statutes are in museums in Germany and Athens. Some of the smaller found objects are in the museums on-site and in the port.

Excavations and restoration have taken place at Aphaia for more than a century – in 1811, 1901-04, and most recently 1967-84. A rich picture of this important archaeological site is still being painted.

Sacred geometry

Aphaia is also part of Greece’s ‘sacred triangles’: along with the Parthenon in Athens, it makes neat isosceles triangles with the temple of Poseidon to the south-east and Delphi Apollo to the north-west. Controversy rages over whether this is coincidence, or was deliberately done by the ancient Greeks – and if so, why.

The hidden goddess then and now

So who was Aphaia? The chances are, you have never heard of her, because she was a goddess worshipped mainly on Aegina. Her origins seem to overlap with the Bronze Age fertility goddess, but, academics over the centuries have also suggested she was Britomartis or Diktynna of Crete, Artemis the Goddess of the forest, or even Athene. Legends say that Aphaia was a virgin or a nymph chased through the forests by a rapacious god, and that she either threw herself into fishing nets or became invisible to escape. Aphaia is therefore associated with nets and hidden things as well as fertility. The area became a sanctuary for women in Mycenaean times – a hidden gem – and some say it still is.

So, is Aphaia Temple the centre of a goddess worship, a place of safety and healing, a mathematical wonder, an archaeological treasure, or simply a beautiful and peaceful place? You will have to visit to decide!

Getting there

The public bus between Aegina Town and Agia Marina goes via Aphaia Temple several times each day. It takes 25 minutes from town and the fare is 2 euros. Alternatively, visitors can hire a taxi, or walk up from Agia Marina or Vagia.

Contact & entry

The Aphaia Temple is open every day except holidays, from 10:00-17:00.
The museum opening times depend on staff availability and can be irregular.

The entrance fee is 3 euros for adults and older children from November 1st – March 31.
The entrance fee is 6 euros for adults and older children from April 1st – October 30th.
Free for younger children.

Telephone: (+30) 22970 32398

*Aphaia is also sometimes spelled Aphea, Aphaea or Afea.